Recently I made what author/baker Martin Philip calls “jiffy baguette.” It’s a classic yeasted baguette, something most sourdough snobs would not attempt. But the formula reminded me of something baker Jeffrey Hamelman said around “baguettes classically should be made with yeast.”

Though I have had issues with sourdough and yeasted versions, I now agree after trying this formula. It did not take a magic wand, just a long bulk ferment. Mine took four hours with successive folds, followed by a 45-60 minute final proof as a shaped baguette. The end result invited a slather of some French salted butter and voila, a beautiful crumb and crust.