Stirring talk about chefs, bakers, and food
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The dough that started it all.
Westport Pizzeria introduced me to pizza. That is the simplest way to say it, and perhaps the truest. We had just arrived from France, my family and I, new to the country and still finding our footing. Someone took us to a small place on Main Street in Westport,...
Six croissants. No yeast. No drama.
Some recipes deserve to be revisited. This croissant formula — pulled from my culinary school copy of Special Decorative Breads — is one of them. The original recipe calls for commercial yeast alongside a levain, a combined-method approach that balances the...
From Eating to Making: My Kimchi Journey
I have been eating kimchi for years. Long enough that it has become a quiet constant at my table — tucked into pork tamales, stirred through fried rice with a couple of eggs cracked over the top, eaten straight from the jar with a fork because sometimes that's just...
Epic Macaroni and cheese
Signing Macaroni At the Museum of Food and Drink, culinary historian Karima Moyer-Nocchi delivered a compelling presentation on the history of macaroni and cheese. (I had initially mixed up the date with Anna Cobb’s introduction of O’KRA, her okra fruit–infused health...
Mill to loaf
Letting Grain Teach You I’ve been milling grains at home for nearly twenty years, with results that range from quietly great to deeply humbling. Testing, repetition, and a lot of paying attention slowly improved my approach. This past year, I’ve been lucky to work...
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