In my worn out copy of Giuliano Bugialli’s Classic Techniques of Italian cooking, one recipe has captured my imagination in particular; Ultima moda 1841. It’s a re-worked version of a classic pasta dish that is rustic, simple and tasty. Most relevant to me recently, given the gas supply at home had been shut off (limiting my cooking to a mini-oven), rather than using boiled water, you soak the pasta in olive oil, then mix with tomatoes, season and baked, sprinkle with grated cheese. It’s fabulous one pan cooking.
Joe Ortiz, The Village Baker
Le Boulangerie Moderne Ever since the pandemic began, I'd been trying to reach Joe Ortiz — the author of The...










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