Pistachio gelato was on my summer to-do list. As most pistachio spreads are creamified, sugary concoctions, I first considered using some peanut butter. Using a standard egg based gelato mix, you would think the process would be fairly simple. Not! The pistachio paste didn't blend, and the resulting batch was very grainy. My second try was an eggless gelato using ground chia seeds to replace the modernist ingredient, guar gum. But ultimately, I got a clean pistachio flavor which was key.
Joe Ortiz, The Village Baker
Le Boulangerie Moderne Ever since the pandemic began, I'd been trying to reach Joe Ortiz — the author of The...








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