When it comes to fermentation, I am finally understanding the meaning of the “sweet spot.” I achieved it recently with a 50-percent hydrated lievito madre, the classic Italian fermentation vehicle. It’s based on an equal proportion of flour and levain with a proportion of 50 percent of that mixture in water. Maintaining 2-3 refreshments within three hour intervals give it a clean taste and rocket-fire propulsion for your final dough. I used it for my holiday panettones and, more recently, a Roscon de reyes. All efforts led to excellent structure and taste. Here’s may latest offering, a boulot .