When my brother first described pupusas, the flat filling-based bread of El Salvador, he was verklempt, a fine Yiddish word to describe anything from deliriously happy or sad. In this case, let's say these suffed flatbreads made his belly smile. He discovered them while living in Los Angele's Echo Park, a neighborhood which at that time was home to many immigrants from El Salvador, home of the pupusa.

A masa dough shaped and filled with vegetables, meats, cheeses and cooked on a griddle and then served with a vinegary coleslaw, pupusas are a serious treat. I recently enjoyed a batch at a 25-year old restaurant near me in Woodside, Queens.  Called Izalco, they served theirs with the requisite coleslaw, along with a tomato sauce and chillied-speckled salsa. If you get to Woodside, look up Izalco, or if you see pupusas, try them. You'll be verklempt. Or just say "uno mas, por favor!"