Christmas is the time for panettone. But it seems there’s bad juju coming my way. I failed on my first four attempts. As a recent New York Times article makes clear, I’m not the only one obsessed about this holiday bread. My quests are rarely seamless. This year I bought some metal skewers, believing they would be insurance for folding molds. Previous versions had folded like watercress, leaving the panettone to collapse. Let’s wait while the latest one hangs a few more hours!