Chestnuts in Panettone? In this Milanese sweet bread that is usually studded with raisins and candied citrus, that would be considered heresy for more orthodox traditionalists. Being somewhat a baking heretic, I seek flavors and textures that aren’t always considered traditional. That is why considering how to make this panettone, I considered candied chestnuts.

But while chatting with my friend Domenico, he reminded me of castagnaccio, a chestnut flour cake. It’s a delicacy once popular in the Appenine regions, from Emilia Romana, Piedmont, to Corsica where chestnuts grow. Often flavored with dried fruits, pine nuts, citrus, olive oil and rosemary, it’s also known as “pattona,” not far off from Panetto (small cake), root for panettone. So here I go, with my version with chestnut flour, combining flavors.