My wife just took me out to dinner at Harlem’s Red Rooster, Marcus Samuelsson’s revived Harlem restaurant. It offers a slice of Americana with brilliant updated soul food. The staples are here; grits, yard bird (fried chicken) and corn bread, cow peas, buttermilk mashed potatoes,and collard greens, but there are also snacks like cured tostadas with salmon, nuts, and cured meats.

It had its downsides. Temperture issues (my collar greens were a bit cool), not enough bread and butter pickles with my yard bird, and no shallots or black pepper in the mignonette sauce served for oysters. That said, I still enjoyed our dinner. The staff is well trained, not only knowledgeable about the food but well versed in the restaurant’s large wine list. Red Rooster gets crowded, but if you like good music and lounge food, downstairs you’ll find a slightly different menu along with live bands. Upstairs is worth the wait, with excellent service, a great vibe and often great food.